Interesting Places in Armenia. Gyumri, Part 2
So, we boarded the train. In terms of timing, the express to Gyumri is more convenient, so we chose it. The trip was great: fields and mountains outside the window, moving toward Georgia. We chatted and didn’t even notice how 2.5 hours passed.
As we arrived, the sky looked like classic winter Moscow or Saint Petersburg: low gray clouds and pouring rain. We got off and headed to the “Ponchik Monchik” cafe, where you can try unusual giant round donuts with cream or chocolate filling, plus different pastries that resemble chebureki. Earlier these donuts were available only in Gyumri, but now a second cafe has opened in Yerevan. We’ll visit and report.
While searching for the cafe, we got soaked and frozen. Rain, wind, cold - full combo. But the funniest part is this: one hour after arrival we had a city sightseeing tour booked. At a big round table, our delegation discussed canceling the tour.
So I texted the guide and told him our decision. But we got a true Gyumri character (as he called himself): “we are rough and direct.” He called back and insisted there would be no cancellation. He said: “I’ll bring you down jackets, coats, umbrellas, and raincoats.”
He was so persistent that in 15 minutes a pile of warm clothes, raincoats, and umbrellas was delivered to the cafe. There was enough for everyone, so we were saved from the cold. “I brought everything I had at home.”
Then, wrapped up like wanderers, we went on the tour under heavy rain. A little dog named Zhuzhik joined us and followed along. Our guide said she always accompanies him.
The city is extraordinary in its architecture: buildings made of black and dark-brown tuff give it a special graphic and almost “chocolate” character - especially when wet stone gets even darker. The historic center (Kumayri district) carefully preserves old urban fabric: there are about 1,600 cultural heritage sites, so at times it feels like walking through an open-air museum city.
Gyumri is also called the city of doors - and that is very accurate: carved portals, arches, old date plaques, courtyards where you can see almost nothing from the street, and behind a door there is a whole small world. Many doors have unusual shapes, and the city has a bit of fantasy vibe.
We visited the Frunzik Mkrtchyan house-museum (right in the center) and a place connected to his story. They say there are unique futuristic art objects there too, but we left that for another time.
After the tour we went to the fish restaurant “Cherkezi Dzor” in an amazingly beautiful location. I definitely recommend it.
Because of the weather, the impression was a bit blurred, so Gyumri is waiting for us again. The trip back was easy and pleasant: we talked, and three Armenian girls in nearby seats were singing mysterious and very soulful songs in Armenian with a guitar. Beautiful landscapes and flocks of birds flashed by outside the window - the journey was ending.
#placeArmenia #Armenia #Gumri